The Ceremony

August 2014


“WELCOME. Save me.”


This is the first thing that I read in Borneo’s Balikpapan airport. It was printed next to a picture of an orangutan. They don’t get it, do they? It’s all of us that need saving. And it’s to the forests and their guardians — the ancestors —  that we now give ourselves to be saved. That’s how the indigenous people of Muara Tae taught me with the ceremony I attended.


I closed my eyes through two-thirds of the flight there, and I think I discovered why Asuy, Masrani, and others wanted me so to be there in person, not just in spirit or megabytes. ”To make it complete,” Jane said. ”This is it!” said Asuy. Yeah, this is it. They want to make sure we all understand that this is it, the convergence of all prayers and dreams, of humans and spirits, so that fear and despair will sneak away, like a thief in the middle of the night who finds the house is full of laughter and joy.


Now, with vows taken and the ancestors called in, the Borneo ceremony has reached its climax and is drawing to a close. While no company representatives came to the ceremony, there were representatives from the government:  Chief of Sub-district Jempang, Chief of Village of Muara Tae, Chief of Indigenous Council of the District of West Kutai. All expresssed appreciation to the people of Muara Tae for conducting the ceremony and trying to resolve conflicts and forest destruction in the indigenous/customary way.


People from Ponak Village did not come to either the ceremony or the vow ritual, although they were invited formally and informally.  This was a disappointment. However, people from Lempunah Village and Mancong Village came to the ceremony and it seems the connection between Muara Tae and the people of these villages is stronger now.

At the buffalo fiesta, the atmosphere was festive and busy — many people and many things to do. The ceremonial ground provided a place for people to meet, enjoy performances, play games. This was the largest gathering of the ceremony, and culminated in the buffalo ritual. [In this photo, the traditional carved pole is danced around to prepare for the buffalo.] A feast followed, where they served over 700 people. The dinner was excellent. The pork barbecue was especially good — one of the best I ever tasted. Alex said it was because the meat was prayed over.


A much lower number of people attended the vow ceremony in the forest, which was a solemn ritual, held  where two rivers meet and become one before flowing to Muara Tae. The river on the left looks clear, but it’s polluted by chemicals from mining companies. The river on the right looks dirty, muddy, because of the runoff from the palm oil plantations. The ancestors always arranged it that a community or village be guardians of the forests where rivers that flow into that community or village start —  just like Muara Tae before mining and oil palm plantations.
The vow ceremony reminded the people: ”This is NOT about ownership of this land. It’s about us — the guardians of this forest. Remember, we did not choose and decide to be guardians of the forest — the forest chose us. Or rather the rivers, with where the water flows to, where it bends, who drinks from and lives from it. And that is how this matter was settled long ago, in the time of our ancestors. We are the guardians of this forest.”
The Chief of Indigenous Council of West Kutai District (which is a quasi-government institution selected and facilitated by the government, although supposedly independent and representing indigenous peoples in the district) questioned why they were conducting the vow ritual — which is very sacred and feared — since it has serious consequences. His comments show how serious the Dayak people consider this ceremony to be, and that people in the district capitol are taking notice.

I could see that Asuy got energy and a powerful aura from the whole process— he seemed stronger and taller.  [In this photo, Asuy is addressing the crowd on the purpose of ceremony: to heal the forests and people, to protect ancestral lands, to celebrate indigenous people’s dignity.] And even after all this time and work — including the great preparations as they stayed a month camping in the ceremonial ground — Asuy’s wife Laiyen didn’t look tired. Masrani plans to write a book about the ceremony. He thinks it will be good and useful to document the process and the details of the rituals, including mantras, talismans, equipment, etc.


I think Asuy and Masrani overall feel relieved that the ceremony and the vow have concluded. When I left them, I sensed they were in a kind of floating state — not really there. After the last vow ritual in the forest, nobody talked much.  Maybe it was just exhaustion — but perhaps  also a higher, more serious state of mind.  Still, more than a few people managed to express gratitude to all the friends and supporters of the tribe. Pak Kilo said, “Don’t go away for too long and make me miss you much.’’

Our friends in Muara Tae are now concluding the ceremony with a fasting period of eight days following the buffalo fiesta. During the fasting days, they remain in the temporary living quarters on the ceremonial ground, where they have been living and preparing since just after the pig fiesta. During this time, they can’t see visitors or guests. They stop working, and they are not to cut any trees nor kill any animals.


When they finish the eight days of fasting, they will dismantle everything that they built for the ceremonial ground.  This includes the living quarters, the buffalo pole and statue, the praying altars, and the platforms for the ancestors.  Everything in the ceremonial ground will be removed — the field cleared. And a new era shall begin.

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Muara Tae Today

April 2015


There is good news, there is sad news, and there is weird news. The good news is that Muara Tae is having their rice harvest these days, and the harvest is very good. The natural world has been very gracious to them. A family harvest averaged 200 jars of rice, which was more than enough, as usually a family needs 100 jars for a year. Masrani says it’s a good time to come and visit, with the harvest and fruit season. (Anyone..?) More good news: Masrani’s iPhone [donated by a supporter] fell into the river. He simply picked it up and let it dry for three days and now it’s back on again.

The weird news is that two coal mining companies operating in Muara Tae have pulled out. Probably they are just waiting until global coal prices rebound, though. And one more news: A sad one. These days many people from neighbouring villages come to Muara Tae for fruit, wood for their houses, and rice to survive. They beg, buy, and steal. One night, a truckload of people came to a rice field here, cut and loaded all of it into the truck, and sprinted away. Leaving behind tire marks and the tragic realisation of how poor our neighbours have become since they surrendered their lands and forests to the oil palm plantations.




There have been no disturbance from the police since January of this year, and there is still no more forest clearing by the companies on Muara Tae land. However, the threats are there. A new Chief of Village was elected in a rigged election. He is a company man. The Tribal Chief, who is protecting our people and forest, is being warned by the district officials. He was given three months to “correct” policies or he will be sacked. An election for Chief of District is coming in December. This is a time when political dealers meet with business interests. Whichever candidate promises to surrender more forest to industrial plantations will be the one winning the election. This is the way it has always been in political processes in the region.




Masrani has moved to his own house [at the time of the ceremony, he and his family shared with his father, Asuy, and his family]. It is not yet fully completed, so he and his wife and their two kids occupy one bedroom. And guess what? Masrani installed solar cells! I am so amazed. He said the cost is Rp 2.8 million (that’s about USD $250). This is the price of the cells, cables, current inverter (from DC to AC), and controller. The price excludes the battery, which Masrani got from a broken truck. The system is able to power three or four LED lamps, and a moderate use of the water pump. I said to myself that I should really look for this in Jogja — it will be much cheaper there, and will be a solution to the unreliable grid we are all on in Java.




I also visited Pak Kilo. It was the morning he came back from gathering honey. I wish I could go with him doing it. It’s an expedition into the forest. They put a big fire under the honey tree, then climbed with their specially made rattan ropes. Pak Kilo gave me 1.5 liters of the 40 liters they collected that night.
Everything is good, they tell me. Everything is ok. The worry and anger sometimes come visiting but are not staying and dominating.
On the last night of my visit, Saeful and Masrani called the others and we had a meeting. In that meeting, they agreed that it’s 700 hectres of land that they urgently need to replant and reforest. This 700 hectres is the frontier — in border areas of Muara Tae. Of this 700 hectres, 100 is forest already cleared by the companies but not yet planted, and 600 is areas cleared and planted already with oil palm. I told them that I will be happy if they would share with me their plan of action once they have it.




I talked with them about bringing in others to support their reforestation with a “Let a forest adopt you” program. Of course, they are not amazed with the idea. They have always been in a mother-children relationship with the forest. The Adat Chief told me that when they go into the forest they offer the food that they bring with them and say, “Mother, here I am, your child visiting you. So please be kind, protect us and bless us with whatever we need from you.” So, if ever we get a “Let A Forest Adapt You” program going, our friends in Muara Tae will be ready.

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Muara Tae Baru 01 - tridaya fm

Setelah sekian lama tidak bersua, TRIDAYA FM (TRIpanji aDAlah keniscaYAan For Muara tae) kembali mengunjungi para pemirsa dengan berita-berita utama sebagai berikut:

1. Gugatan Muara Tae kepada Bupati Kutai Barat melalui PTUN tentang penetapan tapal batas telah DITOLAK.  Dasar Keputusan PTUN Kaltim ini adalah karena Masrani dan warga Muara Tae dianggap Tidak Punya Kepentingan.  Berdasarkan fakta-fakta persidangan, Hakim PTUN tidak menemukan adanya kepentingan Masrani untuk memperkaya diri sendiri, oleh karenanya gugatannya ditolak. Adapun kepentingan adat, sosial, budaya, ekonomi, dan lingkungan atas kawasan adat tersebut, yang telah disampaikan di dalam persidangan oleh para saksi dan diperkuat berbagai alat bukti dianggap tidak penting oleh Hakim.  Atas keputusan PTUN ini Pihak Penggugat menyatakan pikir-pikir dan kemungkinan akan mengajukan banding.
2. RSPO memerintahkan kepada First Resources Ltd. dan anak perusahaannya, PT Borneo Surya Mining Jaya, agar MENGHENTIKAN pembukaan lahan dan seluruh kegiatan operasional perusahaan di lapangan.  Perintah ini berdasarkan pengaduan oleh EIA kepada RSPO, dan selanjutnya diproses oleh RSPO berdasarkan mekanisme dan ketentuan internal RSPO yang seharusnya dipatuhi oleh para anggota RSPO, yaitu apabila ada pengaduan yang masuk akal, maka kegiatan operasional di lapangan harus dihentikan sampai ditetapkannya penyelesaian atas pengaduan tersebut.  Laporan reporter dari lapangan menunjukkan bahwa meskipun PT BSMJ telah menghentikan kegiatan pembukaan lahan di wilayah Muara Tae tapi di wilayah Lempunah perusahaan ini masih meneruskan pembukaan lahan.  Oleh karenanya RSPO harus tahu bahwa beginilah kinerja anggota-anggotanya di lapangan, selalu menimbulkan konflik, selalu mencari celah dan mengambil kesempatan dalam kesempitan, dan lain-lain. 
3. Laporan warga Muara Tae kepada Polda Kaltim tentang dugaan pemalsuan tanda tangan dalam surat tuntutan pemecatan Petinggi Muara Tae telah DILIMPAHKAN kepada Polres Kutai Barat.  Menurut keterangan Polda Kaltim, pelimpahan kasus ini karena locus delictinya adalah di wilayah hukum Polres Kutai Barat.  Atas perkembangan kasus ini, warga Muara Tae mengaku telah garuk-garuk kepala dan hm hm hm saja.
4. Laporan warga Muara Tae kepada Polisi tentang dugaan tindak pidana berupa penjualan tanah milik Muara Tae oleh oknum-oknum yang tidak bertanggung jawab sampai sekarang BELUM ada kabar tindak lanjutnya.
5. Proses PEMECATAN Masrani sebagai Petinggi Muara Tae terus berlangsung.  Pemecatan atau impeachment ini bukan karena nikah siri, bukan karena korupsi, bukan karena inkompetensi, akan tetapi karena satu dan lain hal (off the record: karena Masrani selalu menolak perusahaan tambang dan perkebunan kelapa sawit di wilayah Kampung Muara Tae).
6. Berita Gembira: Anak paling bungsu Ibu Laiyen-Pak Asuy sudah bisa tengkurap, sekitar 3 bulan umurnya, NURANI namanya.  Moga-moga selalu sehat dan bahagia.

Demikian berita-berita utama TRIDAYA FM kali ini.

Keterangan Tambahan:
Semboyan Muara Tae Baru meniru semboyan Jokowi-Ahok yaitu Jakarta Baru.  Semoga seperti Jokowi-Ahok yang tetap semangat meskipun tantangan yang dihadapi Jakarta sedemikian berat dan sulitnya.  

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Muara Tae XXX - (lupa nomor jurnal terakhir, jangan berpikir yang bukan-buka​n)

Entah kenapa dalam perjalanan yang panjang di poros Samarinda-Muara Tae kali ini pikiranku tak bisa lepas dari Aziz. Bukan karena kangen pastinya karena baru ketemu kemarin. Pastinya juga bukan karena hutang karena sudah kulunasi. Mungkin karena ini bulan suci Ramadhan sehingga urusannya jadi ke religius-religius gitu. Nah, Aziz ini sudah bergelar Haji Kecil, sudah beribadah Umroh ke Mekah. Jadi Aziz ini belum pernah ke London atau Paris atau New York atau Bangkok atau Tiongkok (kalau Rengas Dengklok sih udah kali), tapi dia sudah ke Mekah, mungkin yang paling penting dari semua kota itu. Jadi dia sekarang bergelar Haji Kecil padahal dia tidak punya gelar Drs., Ir., DR., SH, MBA, MM, atau SPi, SPet, SHut, atau apapun. Memang Haji Kecil sudah paling pas juga sih dengan postur tubuhnya. Ini hal berikutnya yang membuatku memikirkan Aziz dalam perjalanan ke Muara Tae ini, soal pisik. Yang paling sesuai dengan gambaran Asterix ya dia ini lah. Kecil, bengil, tengil, siap kelahi dan ditugaskan ke manapun. Begitulah si Azizterix ini. Plus kualitas-kualitasnya yang lain, seperti misalnya dengan gajinya yang kecil sebagai pengelola T-Port dulu dan beberapa tahun terakhir sebagai sekretaris BPT kok bisa dia pergi ke Mekah, ngasih aku utangan untuk beli rumah, kumintain rokok setiap hari (Sampoerna Kretek). Mungkin memang irit dia ini: naik angkot saja, kontrak rumah di pelosok mana gitu, handphone Samsung 200 ribuan, tidak minum-minum kecuali sesekali tiap dua atau empat tahun, liburan keluarga paling ke Kebun Raya Bogor (naik angkot, karcis gratis untuk anak di bawah lima tahun, boleh membawa makanan dan minuman dari luar, tidak seperti kafe-kafe atau restoran atau bioskop-bioskop itu), makan nya sedikit banget (sehingga juga tidak pernah menciptakan beban, khususnya bagi motornya Pak Asuy).
Jadi inilah pemikiranku di sepanjang jalan ke Muara Tae: untuk menandingi yang berkuasa, mewah, kaya, kuat, seram dan besar maka kita perlu menjadi kecil. Seperti juga kata kitab suci, Kecil mengalahkan besar.
Ini nampaknya tema perjalanan ziarah ke Muara Tae kali ini di bulan suci. Selamat Berpuasa!

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Muara Tae 17 - salam sambungan lagi

Nonette, yang sementara Hendaru merenungi nasib dengan sigap telepon sana-sini untuk menggalang dukungan legal dan ACT NOW untuk Muara Tae, sebagaimana nampak dalam foto yang terlampir di email sebelum ini.

Rukka, semua akan terjadi pada waktunya, Ukka, termasuk roman dan romansa.

Ejhon, punya banyak ilmu dari hasil nyantri di sebuah perguruan, moga-moga segera terterapkan di Muara Tae, biar bisa segera jadi "duwit" atau "do it!".

Nanang, serius dong kalau mau bikin komik atau film yang tidak serius tentang Muara Tae!

Pandit, maaf, Mas, aku kurang paham maksud Panjenengan.

Abu, kordinat-kordinat-kordinat.

Agung, janji terus....

Nawa, sebagai buto ijo kayaknya Bapak yang pali bisa mengimbangi keseraman perusahaan tambang dan batubara, nih.

Yuyun, latihan terus kapan manggungnya nih?

Alex dan Wawan, rencana berikutnya adalah kita perkenalkan classic rock dan blues ke MuaraTae ya! Supaya ada hiburan baru untuk Pak Asuy, Ibu Laiyen, Beliau, Ibu Maria Apung (78), Bapak Mantan Ketua Adat dan lain-lain. Sementara itu, biarlah Pak Petinggi, Saipul (asli Benuaq), dan lain-lain pemuda-pemudi sana menikmati lagu-lagu remaja masa kini di HP mereka.

(selesai. maaf kalau ada yang kelupaan gak dapat salam)

N.B. Situasi di Muara Tae saat ini semakin meruncing dan teman-teman kita di Muara Tae secara khusus meminta dukungan berupa bantuan hukum. Saya berharap teman-teman yang pengacara atau berkompeten dalam bidang hukum untuk segera  mengulurkan tangan dan turut membantu.

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